Luxury Life: Music Artists Are In Fashion
The roster of names on designer labels reads like the Billboard charts as a growing number of music celebrities become fashion entrepreneurs.
At retail and on the runway, several fashion lines launched by music stars have made an impact. But which have been hits and which have been misses?
Since almost all of these businesses are privately owned, their financial figures are not readily available. However, according to various sources, Jennifer Lopez has scored the biggest success with the meteoric rise of her J.Lo line.
Since J.Lo's launch in 2001, the brand's revenue has skyrocketed, from $130 million in 2002 to $250 million in 2003 and $375 million in 2004, according to published reports.
Also at the top of the hit list of music-celebrity clothing lines are two brands that started in 1999: Sean John (from Sean "P. Diddy" Combs) and Rocawear, co-founded by Jay-Z and Damon Dash. According to published reports, Sean John and Rocawear each had an estimated $300 million in revenue in 2003.
As the fashion industry gathers Feb. 4-11 in New York's Bryant Park for Olympus Fashion Week, music celebrities are certain to be among the high-profile attendees.
Music celebrity clothing lines trying to catch up to the industry's leaders include Shady (from Eminem), Fetish (Eve), Vokal and Apple Bottoms (Nelly), Screamline (Scott Stapp), L.A.M.B. (Gwen Stefani) and Shago (Bow Wow).
The roster of music celebrity brands rolls on with the likes of No Limit (Master P), Rock Star Baby (Tico Torres of Bon Jovi), Bushi (Busta Rhymes), Wu Wear (Wu-Tang Clan), Love Kylie (Kylie Minogue), I Am (Will.I.Am of Black Eyed Peas), Dragonfly (Nikki Sixx of Mötley Crüe), Boomer 129 (DMX) and eponymous fashion lines from Snoop Dogg, OutKast and Patti LaBelle.
Phat Farm, launched in 1992 by Def Jam Records co-founder Russell Simmons, is a pioneer brand in the business of mixing music and fashion.
In 2004, Phat Fashions—which includes the brands Phat Farm, Baby Phat and Phat—was sold to apparel company Kellwood for an estimated $140 million and a portion of future earnings.
Simmons remains Phat Farm CEO, while his wife, Kimora Lee Simmons, remains Baby Phat creative director.
According to Kellwood, Phat Fashions had an estimated revenue of $80 million-$90 million in 2004.
Eve's Fetish line, which launched in 2003, had about $50 million in revenue last year, according to published reports.
Meanwhile, the G-Unit fashion line, a partnership between 50 Cent and Marc Ecko Enterprises' Ecko Unlimited, launched in 2004 and had wholesale revenue of $55 million in its first year, according to Ecko.
But established brands are facing increased competition from newer product lines started by music celebrities.
In 2004, those who launched their own fashion lines of clothing and/or accessories included Missy Elliott, Ronald Isley of the Isley Brothers, Lil' Kim, Hilary Duff, LL Cool J, Mandy Moore, Ice-T, Ludacris, Foxy Brown, Paula Abdul, Lil' Romeo, Boy George, Kelly Osbourne, Queen Latifah, Reba McEntire and Pharrell Williams.
Artists who will launch their own fashion lines this year include Christina Aguilera, Beyoncé, Mariah Carey, Lenny Kravitz, Jessica Simpson, Darryl McDaniels of Run-D.M.C. and André 3000 of OutKast.
A SWEET DEAL
In April 2001, Lopez partnered with Andy Hilfiger to form Sweetface Fashion, which owns the J.Lo brand for fashion and beauty products.
"It takes time to really develop a lifestyle brand," Lopez tells Billboard. "We have definitely gone through our share of growing pains, but there are a lot of girls and women out there who can identify with the lifestyle our brand embodies."
Sweetface co-founder/director Hilfiger adds, "You need the right infrastructure, and you've got to get in business with the right people."
Eve, whose Fetish line is relaunching this fall under a new deal with Marc Ecko Enterprises, agrees.
"It takes a lot of money to launch a fashion line," Eve says, "and a lot of people who are in this business don't know what [artists] are about. As an artist, you really need to pay attention to all the decisions that are made, even when you're tired and stressed out. You have to be a hands-on decision-maker."
Nelly's Vokal and Apple Bottoms clothing brands have had their ups and downs, including deals that went sour and changing distributors. Vokal, which launched in 1997 and is distributed by Check Group, resulted from Nelly's past experience as a fashion entrepreneur, before he had a record deal.
Ian Kelly, COO/managing partner of Vokal/Apple Bottoms, says, "We learned from our mistakes. Unlike the music business, where a lot of artists have short careers, the garment industry is about being in it long term."
Hilfiger believes that the most successful fashion brands started by music celebrities are those that sell not only the image of the artists but also an entire lifestyle.
Kelly agrees. "Not everyone is a fan of P. Diddy's music, but people buy Sean Jean clothes because they like the collection."
Vibe fashion director John Moore adds, "J.Lo and Sean John are so successful because Jennifer Lopez and P. Diddy have such high-profile personalities, they have the drive and they know how to market themselves."
Image consistency, quality and having a great understanding of the target consumers are also major factors to a fashion line's success.
"Whether we're adding fragrances or footwear to the brand," Hilfiger adds, "they've all got to be cohesive with everything else that's a part of the brand."
Radue Watson, who heads Rocawear's operations, says, "Quality and fit are everything. We have a look that's so distinctive that you don't even need to see the logo. These have to be clothes that people know Jay-Z would wear."
Watson adds, "The biggest mistakes that fashion companies make is when they don't know their core consumers. You can't let retail executives dictate your business. There are so many new clothing lines coming out, but these new businesses don't necessarily understand the consumers as well as you do. We're still in tune with our urban demographic, which is mostly high school and college-age kids. They want Rocawear to be trend leaders, not trend followers."
THE CELEBRITY CONNECTION
Those involved in clothing lines from music stars agree that the artist's fame has been the key to opening many doors in launching these ventures.
Watson says, "In the beginning, we probably wouldn't have gotten off the ground without the celebrity involvement."
Stefani's L.A.M.B. line of handbags are selling "better than the average new handbag line," reports Mari Garcia, manager of LeSportsac's Madison Avenue location in New York. "People come in specifically asking for the Gwen Stefani bags," she says. "If the quality is there and the price is right, then people will still keep buying."
But a celebrity name can take the business only so far.
Lopez says a big mistake that artists can make is thinking that "success in other areas of their careers can carry them through the success of a fashion company."
Yomi Marti, president/managing partner of Vokal/Apple Bottoms, adds, "We had to prove that Nelly could sell clothes. You need to be more design-oriented than artist-oriented. The artists should be a complement to the line, not a substitute."
For that reason, although the artists often initially appear in advertising to launch their own clothing line, they do not want their personal image to overpower the line. Eventually, other people appear in the ads.
Because fashion is a fickle and trend-oriented industry, presenting the same images and spokespeople for a marketing campaign year after year would be considered detrimental to a brand.
Martin explains, "Nelly is very involved in the design process. But the clothing line isn't just about his favorite colors. It's about the hot colors in the market right now."
Artists often do their best promotion for their clothing lines by wearing them in music videos, at public events or other instances in which they are in the media spotlight.
Hilfiger believes product placement and advertising are equally important and neither should be sacrificed in favor of the other.
Designer Marc Ecko adds, "With G-Unit, we try to bring the marriage between fashion and music full circle, creating ads that have the same dark and moody feel as one of 50 Cent's videos or album covers."
Sometimes an ad campaign can get extra mileage when it generates a lot of media attention.
Apple Bottoms, which its founders say is for "women with curves," had a provocative ad campaign with Nelly posing with a topless model. There was also a well-publicized Apple Bottoms contest in which women competed to be the new model for the clothing line.
MUSIC MANIA
So why is there such a high concentration of music stars starting their own clothing lines, more so than other entertainers?
Vibe's Moore believes it is because unlike actors, who play different characters, music celebrities' art is usually a reflection of their personalities, and their fashion choices are extensions of that.
"These celebrities are constantly marketing themselves," Moore says. "The fashion industry is a little oversaturated with artists' clothing lines, but I don't think traditional designers feel threatened. But celebrities should be aware that overexposure could lead to the clearance rack."
For many of these brands, the business trends for 2005 and beyond are to offer more upscale clothing, extend the brand names and increase alliances with successful partners.
Hilfiger says Sweetface wants to start a venture with a major record label. The company is also planning a music-and-fashion event for later this year in which Lopez is expected to be involved.
Rocawear has acquired licensing rights to the Pro-Keds brand and has teamed with Kanye West for his upcoming Pastel line. Vokal is in discussions with rapper E-40 to start his own fashion wear.
Ecko concludes, "Whether we admit it or not, a lot of success in fashion is directly tied to music, if not in the lines themselves than through the use of artists in marketing campaigns. The bottom line is that when done right, the stuff sells. When done wrong, it doesn't."
At retail and on the runway, several fashion lines launched by music stars have made an impact. But which have been hits and which have been misses?
Since almost all of these businesses are privately owned, their financial figures are not readily available. However, according to various sources, Jennifer Lopez has scored the biggest success with the meteoric rise of her J.Lo line.
Since J.Lo's launch in 2001, the brand's revenue has skyrocketed, from $130 million in 2002 to $250 million in 2003 and $375 million in 2004, according to published reports.
Also at the top of the hit list of music-celebrity clothing lines are two brands that started in 1999: Sean John (from Sean "P. Diddy" Combs) and Rocawear, co-founded by Jay-Z and Damon Dash. According to published reports, Sean John and Rocawear each had an estimated $300 million in revenue in 2003.
As the fashion industry gathers Feb. 4-11 in New York's Bryant Park for Olympus Fashion Week, music celebrities are certain to be among the high-profile attendees.
Music celebrity clothing lines trying to catch up to the industry's leaders include Shady (from Eminem), Fetish (Eve), Vokal and Apple Bottoms (Nelly), Screamline (Scott Stapp), L.A.M.B. (Gwen Stefani) and Shago (Bow Wow).
The roster of music celebrity brands rolls on with the likes of No Limit (Master P), Rock Star Baby (Tico Torres of Bon Jovi), Bushi (Busta Rhymes), Wu Wear (Wu-Tang Clan), Love Kylie (Kylie Minogue), I Am (Will.I.Am of Black Eyed Peas), Dragonfly (Nikki Sixx of Mötley Crüe), Boomer 129 (DMX) and eponymous fashion lines from Snoop Dogg, OutKast and Patti LaBelle.
Phat Farm, launched in 1992 by Def Jam Records co-founder Russell Simmons, is a pioneer brand in the business of mixing music and fashion.
In 2004, Phat Fashions—which includes the brands Phat Farm, Baby Phat and Phat—was sold to apparel company Kellwood for an estimated $140 million and a portion of future earnings.
Simmons remains Phat Farm CEO, while his wife, Kimora Lee Simmons, remains Baby Phat creative director.
According to Kellwood, Phat Fashions had an estimated revenue of $80 million-$90 million in 2004.
Eve's Fetish line, which launched in 2003, had about $50 million in revenue last year, according to published reports.
Meanwhile, the G-Unit fashion line, a partnership between 50 Cent and Marc Ecko Enterprises' Ecko Unlimited, launched in 2004 and had wholesale revenue of $55 million in its first year, according to Ecko.
But established brands are facing increased competition from newer product lines started by music celebrities.
In 2004, those who launched their own fashion lines of clothing and/or accessories included Missy Elliott, Ronald Isley of the Isley Brothers, Lil' Kim, Hilary Duff, LL Cool J, Mandy Moore, Ice-T, Ludacris, Foxy Brown, Paula Abdul, Lil' Romeo, Boy George, Kelly Osbourne, Queen Latifah, Reba McEntire and Pharrell Williams.
Artists who will launch their own fashion lines this year include Christina Aguilera, Beyoncé, Mariah Carey, Lenny Kravitz, Jessica Simpson, Darryl McDaniels of Run-D.M.C. and André 3000 of OutKast.
A SWEET DEAL
In April 2001, Lopez partnered with Andy Hilfiger to form Sweetface Fashion, which owns the J.Lo brand for fashion and beauty products.
"It takes time to really develop a lifestyle brand," Lopez tells Billboard. "We have definitely gone through our share of growing pains, but there are a lot of girls and women out there who can identify with the lifestyle our brand embodies."
Sweetface co-founder/director Hilfiger adds, "You need the right infrastructure, and you've got to get in business with the right people."
Eve, whose Fetish line is relaunching this fall under a new deal with Marc Ecko Enterprises, agrees.
"It takes a lot of money to launch a fashion line," Eve says, "and a lot of people who are in this business don't know what [artists] are about. As an artist, you really need to pay attention to all the decisions that are made, even when you're tired and stressed out. You have to be a hands-on decision-maker."
Nelly's Vokal and Apple Bottoms clothing brands have had their ups and downs, including deals that went sour and changing distributors. Vokal, which launched in 1997 and is distributed by Check Group, resulted from Nelly's past experience as a fashion entrepreneur, before he had a record deal.
Ian Kelly, COO/managing partner of Vokal/Apple Bottoms, says, "We learned from our mistakes. Unlike the music business, where a lot of artists have short careers, the garment industry is about being in it long term."
Hilfiger believes that the most successful fashion brands started by music celebrities are those that sell not only the image of the artists but also an entire lifestyle.
Kelly agrees. "Not everyone is a fan of P. Diddy's music, but people buy Sean Jean clothes because they like the collection."
Vibe fashion director John Moore adds, "J.Lo and Sean John are so successful because Jennifer Lopez and P. Diddy have such high-profile personalities, they have the drive and they know how to market themselves."
Image consistency, quality and having a great understanding of the target consumers are also major factors to a fashion line's success.
"Whether we're adding fragrances or footwear to the brand," Hilfiger adds, "they've all got to be cohesive with everything else that's a part of the brand."
Radue Watson, who heads Rocawear's operations, says, "Quality and fit are everything. We have a look that's so distinctive that you don't even need to see the logo. These have to be clothes that people know Jay-Z would wear."
Watson adds, "The biggest mistakes that fashion companies make is when they don't know their core consumers. You can't let retail executives dictate your business. There are so many new clothing lines coming out, but these new businesses don't necessarily understand the consumers as well as you do. We're still in tune with our urban demographic, which is mostly high school and college-age kids. They want Rocawear to be trend leaders, not trend followers."
THE CELEBRITY CONNECTION
Those involved in clothing lines from music stars agree that the artist's fame has been the key to opening many doors in launching these ventures.
Watson says, "In the beginning, we probably wouldn't have gotten off the ground without the celebrity involvement."
Stefani's L.A.M.B. line of handbags are selling "better than the average new handbag line," reports Mari Garcia, manager of LeSportsac's Madison Avenue location in New York. "People come in specifically asking for the Gwen Stefani bags," she says. "If the quality is there and the price is right, then people will still keep buying."
But a celebrity name can take the business only so far.
Lopez says a big mistake that artists can make is thinking that "success in other areas of their careers can carry them through the success of a fashion company."
Yomi Marti, president/managing partner of Vokal/Apple Bottoms, adds, "We had to prove that Nelly could sell clothes. You need to be more design-oriented than artist-oriented. The artists should be a complement to the line, not a substitute."
For that reason, although the artists often initially appear in advertising to launch their own clothing line, they do not want their personal image to overpower the line. Eventually, other people appear in the ads.
Because fashion is a fickle and trend-oriented industry, presenting the same images and spokespeople for a marketing campaign year after year would be considered detrimental to a brand.
Martin explains, "Nelly is very involved in the design process. But the clothing line isn't just about his favorite colors. It's about the hot colors in the market right now."
Artists often do their best promotion for their clothing lines by wearing them in music videos, at public events or other instances in which they are in the media spotlight.
Hilfiger believes product placement and advertising are equally important and neither should be sacrificed in favor of the other.
Designer Marc Ecko adds, "With G-Unit, we try to bring the marriage between fashion and music full circle, creating ads that have the same dark and moody feel as one of 50 Cent's videos or album covers."
Sometimes an ad campaign can get extra mileage when it generates a lot of media attention.
Apple Bottoms, which its founders say is for "women with curves," had a provocative ad campaign with Nelly posing with a topless model. There was also a well-publicized Apple Bottoms contest in which women competed to be the new model for the clothing line.
MUSIC MANIA
So why is there such a high concentration of music stars starting their own clothing lines, more so than other entertainers?
Vibe's Moore believes it is because unlike actors, who play different characters, music celebrities' art is usually a reflection of their personalities, and their fashion choices are extensions of that.
"These celebrities are constantly marketing themselves," Moore says. "The fashion industry is a little oversaturated with artists' clothing lines, but I don't think traditional designers feel threatened. But celebrities should be aware that overexposure could lead to the clearance rack."
For many of these brands, the business trends for 2005 and beyond are to offer more upscale clothing, extend the brand names and increase alliances with successful partners.
Hilfiger says Sweetface wants to start a venture with a major record label. The company is also planning a music-and-fashion event for later this year in which Lopez is expected to be involved.
Rocawear has acquired licensing rights to the Pro-Keds brand and has teamed with Kanye West for his upcoming Pastel line. Vokal is in discussions with rapper E-40 to start his own fashion wear.
Ecko concludes, "Whether we admit it or not, a lot of success in fashion is directly tied to music, if not in the lines themselves than through the use of artists in marketing campaigns. The bottom line is that when done right, the stuff sells. When done wrong, it doesn't."
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